COUNTIES
Along The Byway
Claiborne County
Claiborne County was established by the Tennessee General Assembly in 1801.
Visitor Center
Claiborne County Chamber of Commerce
1732 Main St., Ste. 1
P.O. Box 649
Tazewell, TN 37879
Phone: (423)626-4149
Toll free: (800)332-8164
Fax: (423)626-1611
Founded: 1801
Population: 32,213
Total Area: 440 square miles
Water Area: 7 square miles
Density: 73.21 residents/square mile
County Seat: Tazewell – Population: 2,165
Largest City: New Tazewell – Population: 3,037
The Cumberland Historic Byway begins its meandering course through eight of Tennessee’s most picturesque counties at the Cumberland Gap, where the states of Virginia, Kentucky, and Tennessee converge at a natural break in the Cumberland Mountains. This V-shaped opening through the formidable geology of the Cumberland Plateau provided frontier settlers with a vital passageway to the lands west of the Appalachians. The pass acquired its English name in 1750, when Dr. Thomas Walker named it in honor of William Augustus, Duke of Cumberland, the son of King George II and Queen Caroline. More than 300,000 pioneers travelled the Wilderness Road through the Cumberland Gap to the Plateau region between 1775 and 1840. Yet for centuries before the arrival of white settlers, Native Americans had traversed the Gap for access to the region’s bountiful hunting grounds. Rich in history and natural splendor, the Cumberland Gap National Historic Park encompasses some 24,000 acres in three states, including a northern portion of Claiborne County. Its extensive trail system provides park visitors with unparalleled vistas of geological formations, cascading waterfalls, and breathtaking overlooks.
In traveling the historic route south of the Cumberland Gap on US 25E / SR 32 toward Harrogate, one passes directly from the National Historic Park into the Cumberland Gap Historic District, located in the town of Cumberland Gap. The historic district was listed on the National Register of Historic Places (NRHP) in 1990 for its association with the historical development of Claiborne County as a late nineteenth and early twentieth century mining town promoted by British investors. In addition, the district includes 38 contributing buildings that represent the district’s period of significance from 1890 to 1930. Prevailing architectural styles exhibited in the district include homes designed in the Queen Anne and Craftsman styles. Prior to its association with the extraction and processing of natural resources, chiefly iron, coal, and timber, the town served a vitally important role along the Wilderness Road, with trading posts, inns, stores, and blacksmiths catering to travelers. However, with the rise of the railroads and the establishment of more direct routes to the west, travelers no longer frequented the town of Cumberland Gap. By the middle of the nineteenth century, the town had fallen into a steep economic decline that only worsened during the Civil War, as both armies used the town as a camp and continually raided the area for whatever they needed.
The Cumberland Gap’s fortunes greatly improved in the late nineteenth century. Foreign capitalists flocked to the region to exploit the area’s rich natural abundance. From 1886 to 1891, new construction largely replaced the town’s earlier ramshackle assortment of buildings, nine of which are listed as contributing to the current historic district. The early twentieth century witnessed another boom in the Gap, with many new commercial buildings and residences constructed. Taken together, these historic properties, according to the authors of the NRHP nomination, “clearly represent a significant and distinguishable entity of architectural value in the context of small town architecture in Claiborne County.”
US 25E/SR 32 continues into Harrogate, home to Lincoln Memorial University and its historic university building, Grant-Lee Hall. Constructed in 1917, the hall originally encompassed nearly all of the university’s activities, including its dormitories, classrooms, administrative offices, laboratory facilities, and cafeteria. Grant-Lee Hall also housed the residence of the university president. Listed on the National Register in 1978, the nomination describes the building’s first floor as being constructed of stone, “while the second story and gables are brick. The west elevation is embellished with a stone arcade and projected curved sunroom, while the east elevation includes a massive curved exterior stairway and terrace,” and the arcade, arches, and massive stonework show the influence of the Romanesque Revival. Beyond its architectural attributes, Grant-Lee Hall is notable for its local significance in the area of education. Chartered by the State of Tennessee on February 12, 1897, the anniversary of Abraham Lincoln’s birth, the founding of the institution was purportedly initiated by President Lincoln himself, who had expressed his desire to General Oliver O. Howard that a college be established for the benefit of the “mountain people.”
The Tennessee Historical Commission has erected a number of historical markers throughout the State, four of which are located in Claiborne County along the route of the Cumberland Historic Byway:
1. “Return from Kentucky” – The marker is located on US 25E and commemorates the passage of the Army of Tennessee led by General Braxton Bragg and Major General Kirby Smith.
2. “Cumberland Gap” – Located near the town of Cumberland Gap, the marker commemorates the arrival of the initial wave of settlers and long hunters to the region. In addition, the marker describes Civil War activity in the area.
3. “Harrow School” – Located on US 25E, this marker describes the founding of the Harrow School by Rev. and Mrs. A.A. Meyers in 1890. The Harrow School served as the precursor to Lincoln Memorial University.
4. “Pioneer’s Grave” – Located on US 25E, this marker identifies the grave of settler James Robertson, who was killed by Indians in 1784 at Butcher’s Spring near Arthur.
Claiborne County was established by the Tennessee General Assembly in 1801 from portions of Grainger and Hawkins counties, and is named in honor of Tennessee’s first representative to Congress, William C.C. Claiborne, who also served as a U.S. Senator and as governor of the Mississippi Territory and of Louisiana. Encompassing 277,963 acres, Claiborne County is home to a total of 33 Tennessee Century Farms, a statewide program that “honors and recognizes the dedication and contributions of families who have owned and farmed the same land for at least 100 years”.
One such historic farm is the Bill Russell Farm and its National Register of Historic Places-listed Kincaid House, located along the Cumberland Historic Byway near SR 63 in Speedwell. The Kincaid House is an excellent example of Federal style architecture. The house was constructed ca. 1840 by John Kincaid II for his brother William Harrison Kincaid. The Kincaid brothers were among the largest landowners in the Powell Valley during the Antebellum period. Considering the age of the house, it features uncommon architectural characteristics for the region through the display of stepped parapet gables, a Flemish bond brick exterior, and molded brick cornices.
Another historic Powell Valley property is the Kincaid-Ausmus House, which is located approximately one mile southeast of SR 63. Listed on the National Register in 1975 for its local significance in the areas of architecture and government, the house is historically associated with John Kincaid II, a major land and slave owner of the Powell Valley. The NRHP nomination indicates that Kincaid commissioned the construction of all the existing Antebellum brick homes in the Powell Valley. As with all of Kincaid’s homes, his slaves were used in the construction of the buildings, which included the erection of a brick kiln on the site and the cutting of the limestone blocks that made up the foundations. This house was constructed for John Kincaid III and was completed in 1851. Subsequent owners included Kincaid III’s brother, Alvis, as well as Jordan Longmire and Wiliam Ausmus. The house serves as an excellent example of Federal style architecture and features extensive interior woodwork.
The McClain-Smith House in Speedwell was listed on the National Register in 1975 for its local significance in the areas of architecture and literature. Constructed between 1793 and 1800 by Thomas McClain, who was one of the first white settlers of the Powell Valley, the house faces southward toward the valley’s rolling fields with its back to Powell Mountain. The McClain-Smith House is one of the oldest surviving buildings in the Powell Valley and is an excellent example of stone construction. Built into a hill and made from locally quarried limestone, the walls of the house range from 2 to 8 feet in thickness. Many original features are retained, including its poplar ceilings and built-in cherry cabinets.
The children of Thomas McClain later sold the house and over 400 acres of land to “Uncle” Doc Rogers in 1875. Marshall Ellison acquired the house in 1900 and farmed the property until his death, whereupon his daughter, Myrtle Smith, inherited it. Smith was married to local playwright Earl Hobson Smith, whose plays on frontier life have been performed around the country. Myrtle Smith, herself an author, is best known for writing The Civil War Cookbook. From the front porch of the McClain-Smith House can be seen the cemetery on the property in which Thomas McClain and his two wives, as well as “Uncle” Doc Rogers and Marshall Ellison, are all interred.
Near the Campbell-Claiborne County line, about a quarter-mile south of Old State Highway 63 in Speedwell, is the National Register-listed Speedwell Academy. Significant for its association with both the social and educational history of Claiborne County, Speedwell Academy is a two-story, brick building originally constructed in 1827 as the Powell Valley Male Academy. The school was founded by German immigrant George Shutter, who arrived to the Powell Valley region from Pennsylvania in the 1820s. Utilitarian in style with Greek Revival influences, the building is situated on a rise overlooking the surrounding pastureland and rests on a limestone foundation with hand-hewn, pegged wooden logs framing the roof.
The school served an important role in the Speedwell community for nearly 150 years, providing educational stability at a time in which access to public education in the area was sorely lacking. Speedwell Academy offered its male students classes in English classics, Latin, Greek, oration, and the sciences in the years before the Civil War. In addition to serving as a school, local tradition holds that the building functioned as headquarters for General Felix Zollicoffer during the Civil War and later as a Confederate hospital. After the establishment of a public school system, Claiborne County took over the Powell Valley Male Academy in 1907 and converted it into the coeducational Speedwell Academy, which operated in various educational capacities until 1971. While simple in design, much of its original, historic fabric remains in the building, including its wooden floors, double-beaded board ceilings, plaster walls, and molded trim.
Cultural Sites
Upper Cumberland Quilt Trail
Multiple Counties in TennesseeThe Upper Cumberland Quilt Trail is part of a commitment to preserve the historical craft of traditional quilting. By following the maps, you will see not only the beautiful and historic barns owned by local farm families, but also gorgeous quilt squares displayed on businesses and homes in the various communities. Quilt squares range from 2’x2’ to 8’x8’ wood squares. The blocks are replicas of treasured family heirlooms. In painting their favorite patterns on barns, businesses, and homes, we are honoring local quilters who are well known for their skills of using every piece of scrap fabric to create a beautiful work of art that is also a useful item in the home.
Mountain Hollow Farm
Tazewell, TennesseeMountain Hollow Farm is a cashmere goat farm that also raises angora rabbits, sheep, llamas, chickens, dogs, cats, chickens, and ducks. Their unique country store features yarn, fine handcrafts, loose leaf tea, Raven’s Brew coffee, gourmet food mixes, and goat’s milk soap. The farm offers tours; birthday parties; and knitting, crochet and spinning lessons.
Little Congress Bicycle Museum
Cumberland Gap, TennesseeThe Little Congress Bicycle Museum was established June 18, 2003, and is located in famous Cumberland Gap, Tennessee, where the borders of Kentucky, Tennessee, and Virginia come together. After forty-one years of collecting unique bicycles that reflect style, engineering, and an American way of life, Judge R.E. McClanahan II has put together one of the finest selections of bikes in the world. The museum is a monument to a machine that has influenced our country in everything from motorized flight to women’s rights. They invite people of all ages and walks of life to come to Cumberland Gap, Tennessee, and experience a piece of American and world history.
White Lightning Trail Festival
Cumberland Gap, Tennessee
From the Civil War to modern-day America, the White Lightning Trail Festival will tell the story of those rugged, self-reliant people who made this area the topic of movies and gave birth to one of America’s fastest-growing sports — stock car racing. The White Lightning Trail begins in Knoxville, Tennessee, and travels through eight other counties, including Anderson, Union, Campbell, Claiborne, Grainger, Jefferson, Knox, Hamblen, and Cocke. These communities share a rich heritage that will be on display in the form of demonstrations, food, antique cars, craft vendors, games, a bike run, and a variety of music. It was named one of the Top 20 Events in the Southeast by the Southeast Tourism Society.
Battle for Cumberland Gap Reenactment
Cumberland Gap, TennesseeThe Town of Cumberland Gap invites you to the annual “Gap Divided,” an authentic War Between the States living history and reenactment. Visitors will be able to see battles close up as well as infantry, cavalry, and artillery demonstrations. There will be opportunities to visit authentic Civil War encampments, and eight stations presenting civil war talks and demonstrations on equipment and different branches of the army. The ladies will have a Period Tea and Fashion Show. Sunday is an abbreviated day, with period church services and other Civil War activities before the soldiers start moving out at 4 p.m.
Hensley Settlement
Cumberland Gap National Historical ParkHensley Settlement is an Appalachian living history museum on Brush Mountain in Bell County, Kentucky. The settlement is part of the Cumberland Gap National Historical Park. It is located approximately 10 miles (16 km) north of the park visitor center on Ridge Trail and contains twelve homestead log cabins, a one-room schoolhouse, and a blacksmith shop. A restored spring house on the property was used by the settlement as food storage. The settlement was established by in-laws Sherman Hensley and Willy Gibbons, and most inhabitants belonged to either the Hensley or Gibbons family. The last resident was Sherman Hensley, who left in 1951. The school and some forty-five settlement structures and the agriculture environment were restored to their original state in the 1960s by the Job Corps.
Historic Sites
Abraham Lincoln Library & Museum
Harrogate, TennesseeFrom its earliest beginnings, Lincoln Memorial University began displaying Civil War and Abraham Lincoln memorabilia. Located on the beautiful campus of LMU in Harrogate, Tennessee, the Abraham Lincoln Library and Museum houses one of the most diverse Lincoln and Civil War collections in the country. Exhibited are many rare items — the cane Lincoln carried that fateful night at Ford’s Theatre, two life masks, the tea set he and Mary Todd used in their home in Springfield, and numerous other artifacts. Approximately 30,000 books, manuscripts, pamphlets, photographs, paintings, and sculptures tell the story of President Lincoln and the Civil War period in America’s history.
Grant-Lee Hall
Harrogate, Tennessee
Cumberland Gap Historic District
Cumberland Gap, Tennessee
Cumberland Gap National Historical Park
Cumberland Gap, Tennessee Battle for the Cumberland Gap Reenactment
Cumberland Gap, TennesseeThe Town of Cumberland Gap invites you to the annual “Gap Divided,” an authentic War Between the States living history and reenactment. Visitors will be able to see battles close up as well as infantry, cavalry, and artillery demonstrations. There will be opportunities to visit authentic Civil War encampments, and eight stations presenting civil war talks and demonstrations on equipment and different branches of the army. The ladies will have a period tea and fashion show. Sunday is an abbreviated day, with period church services and other Civil War activities before the soldiers start moving out at 4 p.m.
Cumberland Gap Tunnel
Cumberland Gap, Tennessee Old Claiborne County Jail
Cumberland Gap Historic Marker
Harrow School Historic Marker
Hensley Settlement
Hensley Settlement is an Appalachian living history museum on Brush Mountain in Bell County, Kentucky. The settlement is part of the Cumberland Gap National Historical Park. It is located approximately 10 miles (16 km) north of the park visitor center on Ridge Trail and contains twelve homestead log cabins, a one-room schoolhouse, and a blacksmith shop. A restored spring house on the property was used by the settlement as food storage. The settlement was established by in-laws Sherman Hensley and Willy Gibbons, and most inhabitants belonged to either the Hensley or Gibbons family. The last resident was Sherman Hensley, who left in 1951. The school and some forty-five settlement structures and the agriculture environment were restored to their original state in the 1960s by the Job Corps.
Newlee Iron Furnace
Although all that remains is the lower portion of the original 1819 30-foot blast furnace, it is actually a very small part of what was once an impressively large complex. It was here that limestone and iron ore were heated by coal and converted to “pig iron,” which was shipped down the Powell River to factories in Chattanooga. The Newlee Iron Furnace is located near the Cumberland Gap, Tennessee, entrance to Cumberland Gap National Historic Park.
Speedwell Academy
Speedwell Academy was founded by German immigrant George Shutter, who came to Tennessee from Pennsylvania in the early 1800s. It was established in 1806 as Powell Valley Male Academy and was later called Speedwell Academy. The academy was also used as headquarters by General Zollicoffer during the Civil War as he prepared to take Cumberland Gap from Union forces. The academy was later used as a hospital by both Union and Confederate forces. The school is open to the public April-October (3rd Sun.) 2-5 p.m.; holidays 2-5 p.m.; Christmas Open House (1st three weekends in December) 2-7 p.m.
Kincaid House
The Kincaid House was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1976 for its local significance as an excellent example of Federal style architecture. The house was constructed ca. 1840 by John Kincaid II for his brother William Harrison Kincaid. According to the NRHP form, the Kincaid brothers were one of the largest landowners in the Powell Valley during the Antebellum period. Considering the age of the house, it features uncommon architectural characteristics for the region through the display of stepped parapet gables, a Flemish bond brick exterior, and molded brick cornices.
McClain-Ellison House
The McClain-Smith House was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1975 for its local significance in the areas of architecture and literature. According to the NRHP form, the house was constructed between 1793 and 1800 by Thomas McClain, who is purported to be one of the first white settlers to the area. Architecturally, the house is one of the oldest surviving buildings in the Powell Valley and is an excellent example of stone construction. Following McClain’s ownership of the house, the property was eventually acquired by Marshall Ellison in 1900. Ellison farmed the property until his death, whereupon Ellison’s daughter, Myrtle Smith, inherited the house. Smith was married to local playwright Earl Hobson Smith, whose plays on frontier life have been performed around the country. Myrtle Smith, herself an author, is best known for writing The Civil War Cookbook.
Pioneer’s Grave Historic Marker
Return from Kentucky Historic Marker
The Return from Kentucky historic marker is located on U.S. 25E and commemorates the passage of the Army of Tennessee led by General Braxton Bragg and Major General Kirby Smith.
Gap Cave
Join park rangers for a two-hour adventure exploring this underground cathedral. Discover glistening stalagmites and flow-stone cascades. The moderately strenuous, 1.5-mile tour explores four cave levels and includes a 1-mile hike along historic Wilderness Road. This cave was a stop along the Underground Railroad.
Scenic Sites
Daniel Boone Arboretum
Harrogate, TennesseeThe Daniel Boone Arboretum is located along a portion of the Daniel Boone Greenway, a walking/biking trail in Harrogate. Along the path, one can find over 60 different species of native trees labeled and learn about their habitat and uses. The arboretum is a project of the Harrogate Tree Board in cooperation with Lincoln Memorial University, and moved from Level 1 to Level 2 in 2006.
Pinnacle Overlook
Cumberland Gap, TennesseeAt an elevation of 2,330 feet in Cumberland Gap National Historical Park, this overlook offers a gorgeous view across Kentucky, Tennessee, and Virginia. A winding 4-mile road leads from the park visitor center to the viewing platform overlooking the historic town of Cumberland Gap. The view from the Pinnacle Overlook provides a spectacular view of the surrounding mountains, the Cumberland Gap, and the historic Wilderness Road. The states of Virginia, Kentucky, and Tennessee are all visible from the overlook, which can be accessed via the Skyland Road near the park’s main visitor center.
Cumberland Gap
Cumberland Gap TennesseeDining
Gap Creek Coffeehouse
Gap Creek Coffeehouse is a locally owned coffee house serving hot and cold coffee drinks, teas, smoothies, and sandwiches. It’s open 9 to 4.
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